Domaine Fiumicicoli: A wine with a thoroughbred’s spine

January 20, 2010

in Corsica

"Pont de Spin’a Cavallu," which refers to the bridge's horse-spine shape, is a distinctive graphic element on the Domaine Fiumicicoli wine labels.

Domaine Fiumicicoli is located in the AOC Corse-Sartène. A 13th-Century Genoese bridge, the Pont de Spin’a Cavallu (pictured on the wine label), which spans the Rizzanese river, lies close by to the D69 départemental road that runs in front of the vineyard.

If you continue north on this winding, two-lane road you’ll eventually arrive in the Alta Rocca, the mountainous backbone of the southern part of the island. This rugged country contains isolated mountain villages and spectacular scenery such as the needle-like peaks known as the Aiguilles de Bavella.

Either Félix Andreani or his son Simon will receive you at their superb, 40-ha (99-acre) property. The vineyards that rise up from the slopes of the Rizzanese river are planted in sandy-granitic soil that is ideally suited for the traditional Corsican grape varieties that are used to make the red, white and rosé Domaine Fiumicicoli wines.

Pale lemon yellow in color, the Domaine Fiumicicoli white is an aromatic and elegant Vermentinu with a hint of lime grass and slight minerality. The fine floral character of the Vermentinu grape, combined with a voluptuous roundness make this wine an excellent choice for accompanying fish, shellfish and fresh or dry sheep cheese.

The red Cuvée Vassilia, which is 80% Niellucciu and 20% Syrah, needs adequate time to digest the oak in which it is aged for six months, but its suggestive hints of the maquis, along with its fine, savory tannins make it worth the wait. Non-oak aficionados may prefer the domain’s normal red, made from 60% Niellucciu, 20% Sciaccarellu and 20% Syrah. It, too, has tannins that need two or three years to best express themselves. Both reds have a beautiful luminescent, ruby color and spicy notes. The main difference is that the aromatic expression of the unoaked version, with its red fruit flavors and concentrated, dark-cherry jelly notes, comes through more clearly and cleanly without the oak influence.

Domaine Fiumicicoli also makes two rather unique dessert wines from the native Corsican Muscateddu grape: an unoaked version with delicious, red-berry fruit flavors and a grapey, kirsh-like finish, and a fortified, barrel-aged version that has a tawny port-like character, with a hint of orange peel and spice. The unoaked Muscateddu is perfect with chocolate desserts, while the heavier, oak Muscateddu is better with strong cheeses and after-dinner consumption.

Print This Post

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post:

�� �